Mountain Architects – Hendricks Architecture

Mexico Beach House: The Infinity Edge Pool

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As mountain architects predominantly specializing in mountain style homes, we aren’t asked very often to design infinity edge pools on the building sites.  For this hilltop Mexican style beach house, near the city of Zihuatanejo, Mexico, we were given the opportunity, designing an organically shaped home and infinity edge pool hovering over the Pacific Ocean.

Beach House Infinity Pool Hendricks Architecture

Mexico Beach House Infinity Pool

The site is steeply sloping, with a guest house towards the top, the main residence in the center, and the pool just below.   The guest house, pool, and landscaping are being constructed in phase one, with the main house to follow later.

Beach House Infinity Pool Sunset Architects

Sunset view from the Mexico Beach House

These photos show the recently completed pool.  Infinity edge pools, also called vanishing edge pools, have no curb on the down-slope side, so the water cascades over the edge.  At the right angles, this gives the illusion of the water continuing into an ocean, lake, or river beyond.  There is a different affect when there is a city, forest or other landscaping beyond, though it can be just as dramatic, if not more so.  The water cascades over the edge, into a receiving channel, and is recycled back into the pool.

The curved pool in this case is similarly matched with the organically shaped Mexico beach house design.  For a plan of the existing site, see our previous post Beach Home on Mexico’s Pacific Coast.

Pool tile architectural detail for beach house

Pool tile detail

This particular pool is intricately detailed in Mexican style, and creates its own shimmering light show under sunlight.  Thousands of elliptical glass tiles were placed one at a time at the bottom of the pool, with even smaller square tiles along the walls, curb, and outer walls into the drainage basin .  Needless to say, labor is cheap in Mexico.

Organic pool architecture from below

The organically shaped concrete pool from below

Many thanks to Sandau Builders for sending me these photos.  Most of us in the Northern Hemisphere can only dream about places like this during the winter.

John Hendricks, AIA Architect

At Hendricks Architecture, we specialize in the mountain architectural style, but have designed all over the spectrum, from beach houses in Mexico to storybook cottages in the northeastern United States.  We’re located in Sandpoint, Idaho.  Click to Subscribe to Hendricks Architecture’s Blog.

Hydronic Radiant Heating

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When designing a home, it is important to consider early in the process what type of climate control system the home will be using. Mechanical systems used for heating and cooling work best when they are properly sized, thoughtfully laid out, and have adequate space for all the components.

There are many options for heating and cooling a home. Many homeowners these days are opting for hydronic radiant heat systems, and we get a lot of questions from our clients about radiant heat systems and how best to configure them.  Radiant heat is a great, energy efficient choice for homes where heating is the primary concern and cooling is secondary.

Unlike forced air heating systems, radiant heating warms the objects in a space, not just the air. Because of this, the space will feel warmer and the ambient temperature can be kept lower than it would be in a space that is heated with warm air.  Other benefits of radiant heat are the lack of moving air that can transport dust and allergens, and the ability of radiant heat to maintain an even temperature without noticeable fluctuations.

Hydronic radiant heating uses a central boiler to heat a fluid that is then circulated through piping concealed in the floor system.  The choice of floor system is a major determinant in the performance of a hydronic radiant system, but the choice of floor system should not be based only on what type of heating the house will utilize.

The best radiant heat systems use a concrete floor slab as a thermal mass (see related concrete slab vs. wood framed floors).  Heavy duty plastic tubing is embedded in a slab that is insulated both on the perimeter and on the underside. The amount of insulation depends on the local climate, the level of efficiency desired, and the budget.  The biggest advantage of this system is the substantial thermal mass of the concrete slab, which will store and radiate heat over an extended period of time.  The slab will also double as a collector and storage medium of any passive solar gain. On the flip side, the slab will take a while to heat up, so this type of system does not lend itself well to turning the heat down during periods of inactivity or absence.

Leaks and damage to tubing that is encased in a concrete slab can be costly and difficult to fix, but thankfully they almost never occur.  Problems due to tubing failure can be mitigated by making sure the tubing is thoroughly leak tested and the slab subgrade is well compacted granular material.

When a concrete slab floor is not practical, radiant heat tubing can be embedded in 1½” or more of lightweight concrete or gypcrete poured on top of a wood framed floor.  This is often done on homes that have hydronic heat on upper floors or where a crawl space and wood framed floor is necessary.  Since a 4” concrete slab is too heavy to be supported by a wood framed floor, a thinner, lighter slab is used.  It has significantly less thermal mass, but does provide some heat storage capacity and also helps dampen floor vibrations common with wood framed floors.  Floor framing has to be more substantial for this type of application than it would be for a floor that doesn’t have to support as much weight.

For radiant heat applications where a wood framed floor is preferred or required and gypcrete overlayment is not used there are a few different options.  Warmboard manufactures a plywood subfloor sheathing that has integral channels milled into it that allow radiant heat tubes to sit below the top of the subfloor.  The channels are clad with sheet aluminum that radiates heat upward into the living space and makes for rapid warming of the floor above.  In this sense, it outperforms the concrete embedment systems, but it lacks the thermal mass and ability to moderate temperature fluctuations.  Warmboard is relatively expensive, but by most accounts it functions well and is a viable alternative when concrete or gypcrete is impractical.  Misplaced nails or dropped tools can easily damage the tubing, so pressure testing is required before covering and after flooring has been installed.

The staple up radiant tubing application is the least expensive and easiest system to repair or retrofit.  As a trade off,  it is also the least efficient and easiest to damage.  Staple up systems involve installing the tubes on the underside of the subfloor between floor joists.  The tubes are held in place by staples and sometimes backed with foil faced rigid insulation or installed with integral metal heat transfer plates.  In order to be reasonably efficient, a staple up system needs to have more than code required insulation in the joist bays, and shouldn’t be used where floors are cantilevered out beyond heated space below because of the potential for condensation.

For more on floor system options to use with hydronic radiant heating, see our article on concrete slab vs. wood framed floors.

Tom Russell, Project Architect, LEED AP

Hendricks Architecture specializes in custom mountain style homes.  Our homes have been featured in Timber Home Living, Mountain Living, Green Building and Design, Cowboys & Indians, Cabin Life and other publications.  We’re located in Sandpoint, Idaho.  Subscribe to Hendricks Architecture’s Blog

Previous Post: Concrete Slab vs. Wood Framed Floors

Deconstruction vs. Demolition

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Recently I read an article in the Seattle Times Home and Garden section about deconstruction versus demolition, both of which I’ve had experience with as an architect. “On average, more than 75 percent of a home can be reused and recycled”, said writer Stacy Downs.

When you hear the term “tear down”, most homeowners simply have the contractor tear down a home, take it to the dump, and start a new home with new materials. The art of deconstruction, where a contractor takes the time to disassemble the light fixtures, cabinetry, doors, door handles, plumbing, and other parts of the house, is becoming more and more in vogue.

Some of your plumbing and light fixtures can be reused on your new home. Your original concrete foundation, garage floor, basement, patio, driveway and brick chimney could be crushed and used for your new home’s foundation backfill, potentially saving you thousands of dollars.

In the case of the mountain style homes we design, recycled timbers are extremely valuable. Not only are these rustic timbers physically beautiful, but they are also sometimes bigger and longer than those commercially available, not to mention the strength of the old-growth wood.

I designed a new home a few years ago in Bellevue, Washington where the old home was deconstructed. It was the homeowner’s idea, and at first I had thought they would lose money in the deal. Deconstruction is much more labor intensive and the costs of deconstruction are initially higher. However, if you’re willing to wait until after taxes, you could actually earn money if you have it appraised for the value of the salvageable structure.

Not only could you get tax benefits, you could also get extra LEED points, as well as help ease the minds of the environmentally conscious. More than 30% of waste that goes into landfills consists of building materials. For more info, or to purchase recycled goods, look up your local Habitat for Humanity ReStore resale outlet. Proceeds help your local Habitat affiliates fund the construction of Habitat homes within your community.

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John Hendricks, AIA Architect

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Stone Cladding Options

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Stone has been used throughout history on buildings of many styles as a cladding material. Until relatively recent times it was used for structural applications in foundations and wall construction. In modern construction, stone is used primarily as a cladding option to cover less attractive structural substrates. Stacked stone isn’t a good structural material. It can support a lot of weight, but because it is difficult to reinforce with steel, it is notoriously bad at surviving earthquake events, and thus doesn’t meet the strict requirements that architects must meet in modern building codes.

Stone accents on the grand canyon ranger station help give the building a bold appearance.

Stone accents on a Grand Canyon ranger station help give the building a bold appearance.

Architects use stone on building exteriors to create a sense of permanence and solidity. Drawing from the historical precedent of stacked stone building foundations, stone veneer is often used around the base of a building to visually anchor it to the land. Stone is also commonly used on fireplaces, chimneys, column bases, planters, landscape elements and even as an interior wall finish.

Stone cladding (also called stone veneer) is available in many forms. Many historic and modern style buildings use cut stone slabs as a wall finish material. Similar to the slabs used for making counter-tops, this type of stone cladding is used to create a refined look with clean, straight lines. In the nature themed mountain style homes we design at Hendricks Architecture, stone veneer is used in a more rustic application. Stacked stone masonry fireplaces, foundations, column bases, and landscape features add an organic aesthetic and help buildings blend in with their surroundings. Besides the Mountain Architecture style, others employing the use of stone include the Arts and Crafts, Adirondack, Shingle, Tuscan, and Storybook styles, and are popular in both Timber Frame and Post & Beam methods.

Stacked stone foundation

Stacked stone foundation

The types of stacked stone masonry commonly used on mountain homes are available in three basic forms, all of which have advantages and disadvantages. Here is an overview of the three options:

Thick stone veneer is the traditional and time tested stacked stone application, and uses real stones that are cut or broken to be 4″ – 6″ thick. Applied over concrete, masonry, or wood substrates, thick stone veneer is the most realistic looking, but is also the most expensive. Because it is heavy, thick stone is costly to transport, handle, install and support. Substantial structure is required to support stone installations and keep them from moving or failing over time, and this accounts for a good portion of the cost. Thick stone masonry allows individual stones to be offset horizontally, creating a more natural look that adds rustic appeal. It is also the best material to use if a true dry stack look is desired.

Thick stone veneer on a bus stop.

Thick stone veneer on a bus stop.

Thin stone veneer also utilizes real stone, but minimizes the weight by cutting the individual stones to a thickness of ¾” to 1 ½”. A quality installation of thin stone veneer will resemble a thick stone installation (it’s the same basic material), but this type of stone doesn’t allow for the horizontal relief that can be achieved with thick stone, and thus shadows and perceived textures are not the same. Thin stone looks more refined and less organic. This type of stone has the highest material cost, but ends up being approximately 15% less expensive installed cost than thick veneer because of savings in structural costs, transportation, handling and installation labor.

Thin stone veneer piers on a home under construction.

Thin stone veneer piers on a home under construction.

Thin stone comes with specially made pieces that are “L” shaped to make corners appear as if full thickness veneer was used. We recommend using thin stone veneer on less visible applications and in locations where the cost to create the structure required for thick veneer is significant. Rooftop chimneys are a good place to use thin veneer, whereas a masonry fireplace that is right at eye level and already has the structure to support stone might be a better place for thicker stone. Another option is to mix in 30% full stone with 70% thin stone to achieve a more natural, textured application.

Full stone mixed in with thin stone to achieve more texture.

Full stone mixed in with thin stone to achieve more texture.

Another texture option is to place other masonry materials, such as bricks, into the mix. This is an “Old World” application and is seen on many European structures, including in Tuscany, where stone and other materials were recycled from older buildings (even Roman ruins) or whatever was available. Brick has also been mixed with stone, in a more refined way, in some homes of the Arts and Crafts movement.

Cultured stone is a manufactured product made of formed lightweight concrete that is stained or colored to look like stone. Depending on the brand, cultured stone can be in the form of individual stones or panels that are shaped to key together. Cultured stone is the lightest weight option, owing to the highly porous material from which it is made. Structural requirements to support it are minimal, but because it is so porous cultured stone absorbs and wicks water. It needs to be installed properly and placed over suitable substrates or it can lead to moisture problems and premature failure.

Cultured stone is the least expensive option, but is also the least convincing. Some brands look better than others, but no cultured stone I have seen looks or feels like real stone. Additionally, after several years cultured stone will begin to fade when exposed to sunlight. Almost all manufacturers of cultured stone recommend that it not be installed below grade, and this can lead to installations that are awkward and unconvincing. Many applications of cultured stone leave the material hanging above the ground (and 6″ to 8″ above soil), giving the building the appearance of floating.

One of the problems with cultured stone - a cultured stone wall "floating" above a patio.

One of the problems with cultured stone – a cultured stone wall “floating” above a patio.

When any type of stone is used on foundations, window bays, or any application where the support structure is not an obvious part of the design (such as an arch or beam), it should engage with the ground. To be a valid architectural element, stone should appear to support the building instead of the building supporting the stone.

Natural stone is a beautiful material that can enhance the look and durability of most styles of architecture. As architects of mountain homes, we believe stone, and native stone in particular, is an important material to help a building harmonize with the landscape and appear to “grow from the land”.

Tom Russell, LEED AP and John Hendricks, AIA Architect

 

Hendricks Architecture specializes in the design of mountain style homes and cabins, often with a rugged, rustic appearance including the use of stone and timbers. Most of the homes we’ve completed are in mountain resort areas throughout the West. Visit our portfolio for examples of some of our recently completed custom projects. If you are interested in a mountain home, or you have any other inquiries, please contact us.

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